The city of Jerusalem is situated in a mountainous area that is part of the Jerusalem mountain range, rising about 750 meters above sea level. Jerusalem holds a religious and historical significance unlike any other city, as it is the cradle of the three Abrahamic religions: Islam, Christianity, and Judaism. Its civilizational history spans over five thousand years, as archaeological excavations have revealed. The city has been known by various names throughout its history, including Ursalim, Jebus, Aelia Capitolina, Al-Quds, and Beit Al-Maqdis. Its history and the landmarks within it bear witness to successive civilizations, including the Bronze and Iron Ages, the Greek and Roman periods, and later the Islamic periods starting from the Umayyad, Abbasid, Fatimid, Ayyubid, Crusader, Mamluk, and Ottoman periods. The city encompasses more than 220 landmarks, including the Church of the Nativity, the Dome of the Rock, Al-Aqsa Mosque, and the Western Wall (Wailing Wall). With its rich history and diverse monuments, the city serves as a unique model of human heritage.
The Old City of Jerusalem, with its layout, walls, markets, and sacred buildings, is considered a model for the Arab-Islamic city. The city is divided into neighborhoods, including the Islamic Quarter, Christian Quarter, Armenian Quarter, Jewish Quarter, and the area of the Noble Sanctuary. The estimated area of the city is around one thousand dunams, with the Noble Sanctuary occupying about one-sixth of the Old City.
Archaeological excavations in Jerusalem have been ongoing since 1863, starting with Charles Warren's campaign. Over forty major excavations have taken place in the city since then, mostly concentrated in the vicinity of the Noble Sanctuary. The first organized excavations were conducted by the Palestine Exploration Fund between 1863 and 1867 under the supervision of British officer Warren, who dug a series of tunnels around the area of the Sanctuary. Subsequent excavations by Bliss and Dickie between 1894 and 1897 focused on the southern part of the city, followed by Parker's excavations between 1909 and 1911, with Vincent publishing the results in 1913-1914. Financed by the wealthy Jew Rothschild, Failey conducted excavations on the Mount of Olives overlooking Silwan between 1923 and 1925. Duncan, Macalister, and Crowfoot conducted excavations in the southern region between 1934 and 1948, and in 1961, British archaeologist Kathleen Kenyon and Father de Vaux excavated the southern slopes. After the city's occupation in 1967, Israeli authorities conducted extensive excavations, focusing on the areas adjacent to the Sanctuary from the west and south and the Mount of Olives overlooking Silwan, as well as other parts of the city.
The oldest archaeological evidence discovered on the southeastern slope of the Old City, overlooking the town of Silwan and known as the Ophel, near the Virgin's Spring, dates back to the Bronze Age. Important discoveries include remnants of a massive wall and a stone-built tower on the eastern slope from the excavations conducted by British archaeologist Kathleen Kenyon, dating to the same period, along with scattered remains of buildings along the slope, indicating the city's establishment in the Bronze Age.
Evidence of the Iron Age appears in various parts of the city. Despite biblical narratives of monumental construction during King David's reign, what Dr. Kenyon found amounts to walls and scattered remnants. The use of the eastern wall continued until the 7th century BCE, and some simple houses from this period were uncovered. Old Testament accounts describe the city's residents as Amorites, Jebusites, and Hittites.
From the 10th to the 8th century BCE, Jerusalem served as a regional center until it came under Assyrian rule around 722 BCE. It remained under Assyrian influence until falling to the Babylonians around 586 BCE. Modern historical research challenges all historical claims derived from Old Testament narratives about this period. A wall was built during the 5th century BCE, along with the gate excavated by Crowfoot. The history of Jerusalem presented in the early Torah scriptures seems to have been constructed in this later period, blending reality with myth. Shortly after Babylonian rule, Jerusalem came under Persian control, lasting until Alexander the Great entered the East.
During the Roman period, King Herod rebuilt the city with a new plan. Herod constructed a temple for the god Jupiter, three massive towers named Hippicus, Phasael, and Mariamne, and to the south of these towers, Herod built a palace. Herod also reconstructed a tower from the late Greek period called the Baris and named it Antonia. In Hadrian's era, the Roman city was rebuilt as Aelia Capitolina, a Roman colony, on a square plan intersected by two main streets, as evidenced by archaeological excavations showing sections of the city walls and gates near the Column Gate and to the east of it. The Roman-era ruins appeared in various parts of the city, acquiring a Roman character.
After Christianity became a recognized religion following the Nicene Council in 325 CE, the construction of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre began, and construction activities in Jerusalem continued between the 4th and 7th centuries CE, filling the city with churches and monasteries, as evidenced by the Madaba Map from the 6th century. Additionally, remains of residential houses, streets, and a group of Byzantine tombs have been found.
After the Battle of Ajnadin, the Arabs gained control of southern Palestine. Following the decisive Battle of Yarmouk, which determined the fate of Syria, Jerusalem fell into the hands of the Muslim Arabs in the year 638. It reclaimed its place in Arab history, becoming the sanctuary of Prophet Muhammad, peace be upon him, the first of the two Qiblas, and the third of the holy sanctuaries. Jerusalem, initially known as Iliya, became the capital of the southern part of Palestine after the conquest and the spiritual capital for Arabs and Muslims. In 660, Muawiyah was crowned caliph in Jerusalem. During the Umayyad period, the city was reconstructed, showcasing architectural marvels such as the Dome of the Rock and the Al-Aqsa Mosque. Recent excavations revealed Umayyad palaces near the sacred precinct. Despite being distant from the caliphate center during the Abbasid era, Jerusalem received attention, leading to the reconstruction of Al-Aqsa Mosque and renovations in the Dome of the Rock.
The Fatimid caliph Al-Zahir also contributed to the rebuilding of the Dome of the Rock and parts of Al-Aqsa Mosque. The Fatimids reinforced the city's fortifications, leading to conflicts with the Seljuks, paving the way for the Crusader invasion and the occupation of Jerusalem. The city became the capital of the Latin Kingdom until its liberation by Salah ad-Din Al-Ayyubi after the Battle of Hattin in 1187.
During the Mamluk period, Jerusalem witnessed massive construction projects, including public buildings like markets, schools, hospitals, mosques, Sufi lodges, corners, and fountains. The current Arab-Islamic nature of Jerusalem is a result of the Mamluk-Ottoman period.
In the Ottoman era, walls were built around Jerusalem during the reign of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent. Markets, baths, schools, Sufi lodges, and fountains were established. In the late 19th century, the city began to expand beyond the city walls.
After the Ottoman rule that lasted for centuries, Jerusalem was occupied by Britain after World War I in 1917 and remained under British mandate until 1948 when parts of it were occupied by Jews. In 1967, the entire city came under Israeli occupation.
Jerusalem is rich in its cultural heritage, and its Old City and walls were listed as a World Heritage Site in 1982, at the request of the Kingdom of Jordan.